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Sunscreen Demystified
So you want to get smart about being in the sun.
But the choice among sunscreens is daunting to say the least. Where do
you start? What do you look for? And what's octyl methoxycinnamate anyway?
Sunscreen products, unlike their sunblock cousins (we'll
get to them later) absorb ultraviolet B (UVB) rays and limited amounts
of ultraviolet A (UVA) rays before they can penetrate and damage your skin.
Part of the ultraviolet spectrum, UVB is a short-wave
ray that reddens the skin and causes tanning. Conversely, UVA rays are
the long-wave culprits that deeply penetrate the skin, damage connective
tissue, and are chiefly responsible for the wrinkly, leathery "Marlboro
Man" look.
UVA and UVB rays are a volatile, sunburn-inducing combination.
Dermatologists surmise that if you spent your past summer vacations hanging
out on the beach slathered in nothing but baby oil, all of that "tanning"
has probably harmed your skin and heightened your risk of skin cancer.
Let's first define terms.
The sun protection factor (SPF), listed on bottles and tubes, indicates
the length of defense you'll have before harmful UVB rays start to burn
your skin. What this means: If you use an SPF 15 formula, it will take
15 times as long for UVB rays to penetrate your skin than if you were bare
to the sun's rays. For example, an SPF 20 formula stretches your defense
to 20 times as long.
Water-resistant formulas keep their SPF measure for 40 minutes of "water
activity" while waterproof formulas maintain their SPF for 80 minutes of
"water activity." Because rating tests are staged in chlorinated pools,
and chlorine water is deemed more potent than salt water, waterproof products
are also considered sweatproof.
Some products include additives, like vitamins C and E, which purport to
prevent sun damage. But the jury is still out on any added benefits.
The ABC's of How They Work
A sunscreen compound that offers UVA protection is anthranilate. Compounds
that absorb UVB rays include salicylate and cinnamate. A twofer compound
that protects you from both is benzophenone. A relatively new UVA protection
formula is avobenzone, also known as Parsol 1789. So, when reading labels,
look for active ingredients that include these key elements anthranilate,
salicylate, cinnamate, or benzophenone as part of the root.
Sunblocks such as zinc oxide and titanium dioxide are the only products
that offer full protection from both UVA and UVB rays. They do this by
reflecting light rays. The downside is that they are pretty messy, which
is not ideal if you're hanging out at a sandy beach. And unlike easy-to-apply
and transparent sunscreens, sunblocks are mostly opaque shades like chalk
white and neon purple. Athletes often wear bands of them on their noses
and under their eyes. And you'll also sometimes see lifeguards with strips
of white on their lips and smudges on their shoulders.
What Should You Get?
The benchmark is SPF 15. It is touted by many dermatologists
for general use. However, sunscreens come in lots of varieties. So, when
choosing a product, first consider how much protection you need. For instance,
an afternoon of lounging in a shaded backyard might warrant a lower SPF
than a game of softball at the municipal park.
If you have fair skin and light-colored eyes or a family history of melanoma,
you might need a higher SPF than someone with olive skin or dark eyes.
Some illnesses, like lupus, increase sun sensitivity and warrant a high-numbered
SPF while some allergies or concurrent drug use (i.e., antihistamines,
antibiotics) could limit a sunscreen's effectiveness or aggravate an allergic
reaction.
If you have acne or other skin problems, you might find that a lighter,
gel-based product is less irritating to your skin. And if you're a hairy
guy or gal, you might find that spray-on formulas are more comfortable
than oil-based applications.
The choices are nearly endless. So, your first step toward
good skin care is to look for a sunscreen that fits your lifestyle and
personal needs and then make sure you use it!
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